ABSTRACT Despite of being a natural physiological process, aging is considered a degenerative process with evident effects on aging skin, such as reduced elasticity, wrinkles, reduced facial fat and muscle tone, sagging, changes in facial contour, and sarcopenia on the face. These changes can generate social stigma, suffering, and psychological discomfort for the patient. Thus, this study aimed to evaluate the effectiveness of Neuromuscular Electrical Stimulation (NMES), a technique used in physical therapy for muscle training, in attenuating the signs of facial aging. For this purpose, a scientific survey of publications indexed on the Medline (PubMed), CINAHL, Embase, PEDro, Lilacs, ERIC, Scopus, Web of Science, and Google Scholar databases was conducted and, based on pre-established criteria, two relevant publications for the topic were selected for discussion. The scientific literature regarding the use of NMES to attenuate the signs of aging is still very scarce. The survey showed the need to discuss the current state of knowledge. Our results suggest that, theoretically, NMES could be a promising method to attenuate the signs of aging; however, there are still no conclusive results regarding the clinical effectiveness of using NMES in the facial muscles since few studies relate NMES to facial rejuvenation. More studies are needed, with greater methodological rigor and low level of bias, using precise techniques in the evaluation and allowing to interpret with greater scientific commitment of the physiological mechanism of the muscular stimulus and its interrelation with the integumentary system, proving its effectiveness in the improvement of skin appearance.

RESUMEN El envejecimiento es un proceso fisiológico natural, aunque se considera un proceso degenerativo. Sus efectos son evidentes en la piel envejecida, que presenta disminución de la elasticidad, grasa y tono muscular, así como arrugas, flacidez, cambios de contorno y sarcopenia. Estos cambios pueden generar un estigma social y malestar psicológico para el portador. En ese contexto, el objetivo de este estudio fue evaluar la efectividad del uso de la estimulación eléctrica neuromuscular (NMES), una técnica utilizada en Fisioterapia de entrenamiento muscular para atenuar los signos del envejecimiento facial. Para ello, se realizó un relevamiento de las publicaciones indexadas en las plataformas MEDLINE (PubMed), CINAHL, Embase, PEDro, LILACS, ERIC, Scopus, Web of Science y Google Scholar, y, con base en criterios preestablecidos, se seleccionaron dos publicaciones relevantes sobre el tema. La literatura científica sobre el uso de NMES en la atenuación de los signos del envejecimiento es aún escasa. La búsqueda reveló la necesidad de una discusión sobre el estado actual del conocimiento. Los resultados de esta revisión sugieren que la NMES puede ser un método prometedor de entrenamiento muscular cuando se aplica para atenuar los signos del envejecimiento. Sin embargo, todavía hay poca evidencia con respecto a la efectividad de NMES en los músculos faciales, ya que pocos estudios relacionan NMES con el rejuvenecimiento facial. Son necesarios estudios con mayor rigor metodológico para minimizar sesgos y el uso de técnicas de evaluación precisas, que permitan dilucidar el mecanismo fisiológico del estímulo muscular y su interrelación con el sistema tegumentario y que permitan probar la eficacia de la NMES en la mejora del aspecto de la piel del rostro.

RESUMO Embora seja um processo fisiológico natural, o envelhecimento é considerado degenerativo. Seus efeitos são evidentes na pele envelhecida, que apresenta redução de elasticidade, gordura e tônus muscular, assim como rugas, flacidez, alteração de contornos e sarcopenia. Tais mudanças podem gerar um estigma social e desconforto psicológico para o seu portador. Nesse contexto, objetivou-se avaliar a eficácia do uso da estimulação elétrica neuromuscular (EENM), uma técnica utilizada na Fisioterapia para o treinamento muscular, visando à atenuação dos sinais do envelhecimento facial. Para isso, foi realizado um levantamento de publicações indexadas nas plataformas MEDLINE (PubMed), CINAHL, Embase, PEDro, LILACS, ERIC, Scopus, Web of Science e Google Scholar e, a partir de critérios preestabelecidos, foram selecionadas duas publicações relevantes sobre o tema. A literatura científica sobre o uso da EENM na atenuação dos sinais do envelhecimento ainda é escassa. O levantamento revelou a necessidade de uma discussão a respeito do estado atual do conhecimento. Os resultados desta revisão sugerem que a EENM pode ser um método promissor de treinamento muscular quando aplicado à atenuação dos sinais de envelhecimento. Contudo, ainda há poucas evidências quanto à eficácia da EENM na musculatura da face, visto que poucos estudos relacionam a EENM ao rejuvenescimento facial. São necessários estudos com maior rigor metodológico, a fim de minimizar vieses, e utilização de técnicas precisas de avaliação, permitindo a elucidação do mecanismo fisiológico do estímulo muscular e sua inter-relação com o sistema tegumentar e possibilitando a comprovação da eficácia da EENM na melhoria da aparência da pele facial.

ABSTRACT Alternative methods to the use of animals in research have been a global trend, mainly after the publication of the 3R’s principle (Replacement, Reduction, and Refinement), proposed by Russel and Burch. In the cosmetic sector, safety and efficacy assessments using animals have generated controversial debates. For this reason, in vitro research techniques are widely used to assess acute toxicity; corrosivity and irritation; skin sensitization; dermal and percutaneous absorption; repeated dose toxicity; reproductive toxicity; mutagenicity and genotoxicity; carcinogenicity; toxicokinetic studies; photo-induced toxicity; and human data. Although there are many methodologies described, validated, and widely used in the cosmetic area, the evaluation of the safety of cosmetic ingredients and products is still an expanding field. It needs global collaboration among regulatory agencies, universities, and industry, to meet several unmet needs in the fields of sensitization, carcinogenicity, systemic action, among other issues involving safety of users of cosmetic products. This review article will cover the currently most relevant in vitro models regarding irritation, corrosion, sensitization, mutagenicity, genotoxicity, and phototoxicity, to help to choose the most appropriate test for evaluating the safety and toxicity of cosmetic ingredients and products.

Abstract This study reviews the knowledge on the use of conventional dental whitening and the use of enzymes as a new approach in bleaching. A review of the literature was based on academic articles and on patents related to the use of enzymes in dental bleaching. Tooth whitening techniques used nowadays are well reported in the literature, and its mechanism of action consists of an oxidoreduction reaction with the release of free radicals. The great instability of radicals, when in contact with the tissues, promotes oxidation and reduction in the size of the pigment chains incorporated into them. These pigments are eventually broken down into smaller and smaller molecular chains and end up being diffused from the dental structure. In turn, the use of enzymes aimed at tooth whitening can be a less harmful alternative to the tooth because their specificity regarding the substrate makes them of great interest to perform specific reactions, reducing collateral effects. The use of proteolytic enzymes and oxidoreductases paired with the application of peroxides, can be a promising alternative for obtaining even better results in the dental bleaching process.

Abstract The effectiveness of sun protection depends directly on the photo-protective product employed, the way it is used and the amount applied. Many studies report that sunscreens are often applied incorrectly, at amounts much lower than those recommended for the sun protection factor (SPF) specified on the label. When not used properly, the effectiveness of the product against sun exposure damage is reduced. Currently, sunscreens are available in a variety of different formulations and types, such as stick (bar), aerosol, cream, lotion, oil, tanning formulations and makeup. However, developing an effective stable photo-protective formula that can be correctly applied regardless of type poses a challenge, as effectiveness is dependent on several factors. Factors influencing effectiveness include sun exposure conditions (direct or indirect), level of protection (SPF), amount of product applied, maximum exposure period before reapplication, product type (spray, lotion, etc.), layer thickness required, coverage, and ability to spread and permeate into the skin. Studies comparing the effectiveness of different forms of sunscreens, the amount of product applied by consumers and SPF and UVA protection determined by validated methodologies, are lacking. Therefore, the objective of this study was to review the available literature on the topic and discuss the effectiveness of sunscreen formulations and factors influencing sun protection. This review was carried out on the scientific databases MEDLINE, PubMed and Scielo. Of the many publications retrieved, thirty-nine articles most relevant for this review were selected.

Abstract: Iontophoresis is a noninvasive technique, based on the application of a constant low-intensity electric current to facilitate the release of a variety of drugs, whether ionized or not, through biological membranes. The objective of this research was to evaluate the effect of iontophoresis using different electric current intensities on the uptake of fluoride in dental enamel with artificial caries lesions. In this in vitro operator-blind experiment, bovine enamel blocks (n = 10/group) with caries-like lesions and predetermined surface hardness were randomized into 6 groups: placebo gel without fluoride applied with a current of 0.8 mA (negative control), 2% NaF gel without application of any current, and 2% NaF gel applied with currents of 0.1, 0.2, 0.4 and 0.8 mA. Cathodic iontophoresis was applied for 4 min. The concentration of loosely bound fluoride (calcium fluoride) and firmly bound fluoride (fluorapatite) was determined. The results were analyzed by the nonparametric Kruskal-Wallis and Dunn tests. Iontophoresis at 0.8 mA, combined with the application of fluoridated gel (2% NaF), increased fluoride uptake in enamel with caries-like lesions, as either calcium fluoride or fluorapatite.

Abstract The tretinoin peel, also known as retinoic acid peel, is a superficial peeling often performed in dermatological clinics in Brazil. The first study on this was published in 2001, by Cuce et al., as a treatment option for melasma. Since then, other studies have reported its applicability with reasonable methodology, although without a consistent scientific background and consensus. Topical tretinoin is used for the treatment of various dermatoses such as acne, melasma, scars, skin aging and non-melanoma skin cancer. The identification of retinoids cellular receptors was reported in 1987, but a direct cause-effect relation has not been established. This article reviews studies evaluating the use of topical tretinoin as agent for superficial chemical peel. Most of them have shown benefits in the treatment of melasma and skin aging. A better quality methodology in the study design, considering indication and intervention is indispensable regarding concentration, vehicle and treatment regimen (interval and number of applications). Additionally, more controlled and randomized studies comparing the treatment with tretinoin cream versus its use as a peeling agent, mainly for melasma and photoaging, are necessary.

Abstract Free radicals are unstable chemical species, highly reactive, being formed by cellular entities of different tissues. Increased production of these species without proper effective action of endogenous and exogenous antioxidant systems, generates a condition of oxidative stress, potentially provider of skin disorders that extend from functional impairments (skin cancer, dermatitis, chronic and acute inflammatory processes) even aesthetic character, with the destruction of structural proteins and cellular changes with the appearance of stains, marks and lines of expressions and other signs inherent to the intrinsic and extrinsic skin aging process. The antioxidants are chemical substances commonly used in clinical practice for topical application and may contribute in the fight against the radical species responsible for many skin damage. This paper summarized the main evidence of the benefits brought by the topical application of antioxidants in the skin, considering the amplitude of the indicative performance of antioxidant activity by in vitro and ex-vivo tests as well as in vivo tests. It is recognized that a breadth of product performance tests should be explored to truly identify the effectiveness of antioxidant products for an anti-aging effect.

ABSTRACT This study was to develop, characterize, and evaluate the physical-chemical stability, in vitro antioxidant activity and in vitro safety profile of liquid crystalline systems (LCS) and microemulsions (MEs) with and without organic cocoa (OC) extract. LCS stabilized by surfactant polyoxyethylene 20 cetyl ether, containing water and oleic acid were studied. LCS and MEs were characterized using polarized light microscopy, small angle X-ray scattering, rheology and in vitro bioadhesion, and were evaluated for a period of 30 days by visual aspects, centrifuge test, pH value and relative density. PLM and SAXS assays showed the presence of domains of MEs, cubic and hexagonal mesophasephases, varying the proportions of the components of the formulations; where in the addition of the extract did not change rheological behavior of the formulations. All of the formulations were stable in the period analyzed and presented higher bioadhesive strength. In vitro antioxidant activity suggests that LCS and MEs presented a high capacity to maintain the antioxidant activity of OC extract. The results showed that the incorporation of OC in LCS improved the safety profile, according to cytotoxicity assays of systems may be a promising platform to OC extract for topical application for the potential treatment of skin disorders.

RESUMO Os cristais líquidos representam um sistema de liberação de substâncias ativas capazes de vencer a barreira cutânea, representada especialmente pelo estrato córneo. Água, óleo e tensoativos são misturados para se obter esses sistemas. Diferentes estruturas podem ser formadas nesses sistemas, as quais oferecem muitas vantagens para os produtos de uso tópico. Esse trabalho visou ao desenvolvimento de sistemas líquido-cristalinos preparados com óleo de oliva, sua caracterização reológica e a identificação das fases cristalinas no diagrama ternário. Efeitos citotóxicos foram avaliados usando células de rato como modelo celular. Construiu-se um diagrama de fases que mistura três componentes em diferentes proporções. Duas áreas de cristal líquido, denominadas SLC1 (S1) e SLC2 (S2), foram encontradas com óleo de oliva em diferentes regiões no diagrama ternário preparado com dois diferentes tensoativos não-iônicos. Esses sistemas mostraram fase cristalina lamelar, que permaneceu estável durante o tempo estudado. Os sistemas foram também caracterizados reologicamente e apresentaram comportamento pseudoplástico com tixotropia. Os ensaios de textura e bioadesão mostraram que as formulações foram similares (p < 0.05), indicando que o aumento da quantidade de água em S2 não interferiu nas propriedades bioadesivas dos sistemas. Os ensaios de citotoxicidade mostraram que as formulações não foram citotóxicas. Sistemas à base de óleo de oliva são interessantes para a liberação de fármacos na pele.

ABSTRACT Liquid-Crystalline Systems represent active compounds delivery systems that may be able to overcome the physical barrier of the skin, especially represented by the stratum corneum. To obtain these systems, aqueous and oily components are used with surfactants. Of the different association structures in such systems, the liquid-crystalline offer numerous advantages to a topical product. This manuscript presents the development of liquid-crystalline systems consisting, in which the oil component is olive oil, its rheological characterizations, and the location of liquid crystals in its phase map. Cytotoxic effects were evaluated using J-774 mouse macrophages as the cellular model. A phase diagram to mix three components with different proportions was constructed. Two liquid crystalline areas were found with olive oil in different regions in the ternary diagram with two nonionic surfactants, called SLC1 (S1) and SLC2 (S2). These systems showed lamellar liquid crystals that remained stable during the entire analysis time. The systems were also characterized rheologically with pseudoplastic behavior without thixotropy. The texture and bioadhesion assays showed that formulations were similar statistically (p < 0.05), indicating that the increased amount of water in S2 did not interfere with the bioadhesive properties of the systems. In vitro cytotoxic assays showed that formulations did not present cytotoxicity. Olive oil-based systems may be a promising platform for skin delivery of drugs.

Com o objetivo de comprovar que um produto cosmético é seguro, antes que este seja colocado no mercado, este deve passar por uma série de ensaios biológicos, que avaliem sua segurança, como, por exemplo, os testes de irritação ocular. Porém, poucos artigos científicos trazem a discussão e a evolução sobre os testes de produtos cosméticos realizados na área dos olhos. O objetivo desse trabalho foi realizar uma revisão bibliográfica sobre a evolução dos testes realizados com cosméticos, na região ocular, bem como descrever as metodologias que já foram utilizadas e as que são aceitas atualmente. No Brasil, são ainda permitidos testes em animais, entretanto, as legislações internacionais indicam fortemente a utilização de métodos alternativos para avaliação de risco de ingredientes e produtos cosméticos. As exigências regulatórias que envolvem o registro desses produtos solicitam também a comprovação de segurança destes produtos em serem humanos. Para a realização dos testes oculares em humanos, é necessário o envolvimento de um oftalmologista na condução de protocolos clínicos. Esses protocolos assinados pelo médico especialista são enviados à Agencia Nacional de Vigilância Sanitária, a fim de respaldar o fabricante do produto sobre a segurança do mesmo. A comprovação da segurança de um produto cosmético é bastante importante, considerando-se o livre acesso aos consumidores e o amplo uso desses produtos na sociedade atual.

Before marketing a cosmetic product, a series of biological assays, such as ocular irritation tests, must be conducted in order to prove that the product is safe. However, a few scientific articles mention the discussion and evolution of cosmetic products testing performed in the eyes area. The aim of this study was to review the available literature on the evolution of tests carried out with cosmetics, in the ocular area, as well as to describe the methodologies that have been used and that are currently accepted. In Brazil, tests performed on animals are still allowed. However, the international laws strongly recommend the use of alternative methods for evaluating the risk of cosmetic ingredients and products. Regulatory requirements involving the registration of these products also request safety support of them in human beings. To perform ocular tests in human beings, it is necessary to involve an ophthalmologist for conducting clinical protocols. These protocols signed by the expert physician are sent to the National Health Surveillance Agency in order to endorse the product manufacturer concerning its safety. The safety support of a cosmetic product is very important, taking into account that the consumer has free access to these products of widespread use in today's society.

FUNDAMENTOS: Peeling visa a acelerar o processo de esfoliação da pele. OBJETIVOS: Desenvolver formulações contendo ácido láctico a 85% ou ácido glicólico a 70% e avaliar sua eficácia clínica na redução de rugas finas. MÉTODOS: Testes preliminares foram efetuados e estudo in vivo foi realizado em três grupos com nove representantes cada, separados de forma randomizada. Um grupo foi controle, utilizando apenas fotoprotetor; outro utilizou ácido láctico e fotoprotetor; o último usou ácido glicólico e fotoprotetor. Para eficácia clínica, empregou-se microscópio CCD color, digitalizando-se as imagens do pré e do pós-tratamento. As aplicações foram realizadas por médica dermatologista uma vez por mês, a cada 30 dias, durante três meses. A área com traços de ruga foi calculada pela planimetria por contagem de pontos. RESULTADOS: As formulações foram estáveis na avaliação visual e de pH. Não houve melhora no grupo controle; para o grupo do ácido láctico, houve melhora significativa após a segunda aplicação do peeling na região lateral externa do olho direito e após a terceira aplicação na região lateral externa olho esquerdo. Para o grupo do ácido glicólico, houve melhora significativa na região lateral externa olho esquerdo após a primeira aplicação e, depois de três aplicações, na região lateral externa do olho direito. As formulações magistrais empregadas no estudo devem ser mantidas sob refrigeração e manipuladas a cada 30 dias. CONCLUSÕES: Tanto o peeling de ácido láctico quanto o de ácido glicólico foram eficazes na diminuição de rugas finas da região lateral externa dos olhos após três aplicações (p≤0,05%). Verificou-se que a eficácia dos peelings na região lateral externa de um olho pode ser diferente da eficácia na pele da região lateral externa do outro olho, em relação à rapidez da melhora da pele.

BACKGROUND: Peeling is a procedure which aims to accelerate the process of skin exfoliation. OBJECTIVES: Development of formulations containing lactic acid at 85% or glycolic acid at 70% and the evaluation of these formulations on clinical efficacy in reduction of fine wrinkles. METHODS: Preliminary stability tests were carried out and an in vivo study was performed with three groups with 9 representatives each. One was the control group, which used only sunscreen; another one used lactic acid+sunscreen, and the last group used acid glycolic+sunscreen. Clinical efficacy was assessed with a CCD color microscope, through the digitization of images before and after treatment. The applications were carried out by a dermatologist, once a mont h every 30 days, during 3 months. The area with wrinkles was calculated by planimetry point counting, in accordance with Mandarin-de-Lacerda. RESULTS: The formulations were stable in the visual and Ph evaluation. There was no improvement in the control group; for lactic acid, there was significant improvement after the second peeling application on the outer lateral area of the right eye and after the third application on the outer lateral area of the left eye. For the glycolic acid group, there was significant improvement in the outer lateral area of the left eye after the first application, and of the right eye region, after three applications. The formulations used must be kept under refrigeration and should be manipulated every 30 days. CONCLUSIONS: Both peelings were effective in reducing fine wrinkles of the outer lateral eye area after three applications (p≤0.05%). It was observed that peeling efficacy in the external-lateral region of one eye might be different compared with that in skin of the external-lateral region of the other eye, relative to the speed of skin improvement.

For the construction of the phase diagrams, the method of the aqueous titration was used. There were prepared 5 ternary diagrams, varying the surfactant and the oil phase. The liquid-crystalline phases were identified by polarized light microscopy. The formulations prepared with silicon glycol copolymer, polyether functional siloxane (PFS) and water (S1) and with diisopropyl adipate, PFS and water (S4) presented liquid-crystalline phases with lamellar arrangement. Moreover, after 15 days in hot oven (37 ºC), the formulations presented hexagonal arrangement, evidencing the influence of the temperature in the organization of the system.

O tipo de polímero empregado na formulação de gel pode influenciar no comportamento reológico e na estabilidade física do produto e até mesmo, afetar a aceitabilidade deste pelo consumidor. A reologia tem sido assunto de grande e crescente importância para as indústrias cosmética e farmacêutica, tendo em vista que a consistência e o espalhamento dos produtos devem ser reproduzidos de lote para lote, assegurando a qualidade tecnológica do produto acabado. O objetivo desta pesquisa foi determinar o comportamento reológico de diferentes géis hidrofílicos: dois geis preparados com polímeros dos ácidos carboxivinílicos e um com polímero do ácido poliacrílico. Para este estudo utilizou-se o reômetro Cone & Placa. As formulações estudadas foram estocadas nas temperaturas 25 e 40 ºC e amostras destas foram analisadas nos tempos 1 e 28 dias. Pode-se verificar que a temperatura elevada influenciou na estabilidade física de todos os géis e que o gel preparado com ácido poliacrílico apresentou a maior pseudoplasticidade enquanto os constituídos de ácidos carboxivinílicos apresentaram maior tixotropia.

The nature of polymers used in gel formulation may interfere in the rheological behavior and physical stability of the product, affecting the customer's acceptance. The rheology has been a great and important subject for cosmetic and pharmaceutical industries, considering that the product consistence and spreading must be reproduced each lot, assuring the technological quality of the finished product. The purpose of this research was to settle the rheological behavior of different hydrophilic gels: two gels prepared with carbomers and one with acrylates crosspolymer. For this study a Cone and Plate rheometer was used. The studied formulations were stored at 25º and 40 ºC and the samples were analyzed between 1 and 28 days. High temperature influenced the physical stability of all gels; the gel prepared with acrylates crosspolymer presented the greatest pseudoplastic while the ones composed with carbomers presented higher thixotropy.

FUNDAMENTOS: Os cosméticos hidratantes melhoram a pele, aproximando-a de suas condições ideais, pois aumentam a quantidade de água no estrato córneo. As vitaminas A e E, bem como as ceramidas, são substâncias ativas que vêm sendo muito empregadas em hidratantes, os quais constituem uma das mais importantes classes de produtos cosméticos e de higiene corporal. OBJETIVO: - O objetivo deste trabalho foi avaliar o efeito no pH cutâneo da pele humana de uma emulsão O/A (constituída de base auto-emulsionante não iônica) acrescida, ou não, de vitamina A palmitato ou vitamina E acetato ou ceramida III, por metodologia não invasiva MÉTODOS:O estudo foi realizado em 40 mulheres com idade entre 30 e 45 anos, empregando-se o equipamento Skin Phmeter PH 900 PC. As medidas foram efetuadas no antebraço das voluntárias nos tempos de sete e 30 dias após auto-aplicação diária (duas vezes ao dia), dos produtos envolvidos no estudo RESULTADOS E CONCLUSÃO: A presença das vitaminas A ou E, ou da ceramida não alterou de maneira significativa o pH da pele, o que mostra que as formulações estudadas são adequadas para o uso cosmético.

BACKGROUND: Moisturizers are believed to improve the skin's condition by increasing the water content of the stratum corneum. Vitamins A and E and ceramides have been widely used in cosmetic moisturizing products, and these are one of the most important cosmetic and body care products. OBJECTIVE: The aim of this research was to evaluate the effects on the pH of human skin of an O/W emulsion (non ionic self-emulsifying base) with and without vitamin A palmitate, or vitamin E acetate, or ceramide III, using a non-invasive method. METHOD: The investigations were carried out on a group of 40 healthy female test subjects aged between 30 and 45 years old, using the Skin pH meter PH 900 PC. The measurements were performed on the forearm of volunteers at 7 and 30 days after daily use (twice a day) of the products used in the study. RESULTS AND CONCLUSION: The presence of vitamins A or E or ceramide III did not change the pH of the skin, consequently the formulations studied are suitable for cosmetic usage.