RESUMEN Entre las consecuencias del cambio climático en los sistemas costeros está el cambio del nivel del mar, el cual funciona como una línea base sobre la cual opera una variedad de procesos costeros, a diferentes escalas de tiempo y espacio. La presente investigación tiene por objetivo calcular la tasa histórica y actual de ascenso del nivel del mar a partir de datos de la estación mareográfica Limón. Para esto se utilizaron dos métodos: el análisis de regresión lineal simple y una descomposición de series temporales. Como resultado se obtuvo una tasa de cambio del nivel del mar para el período 1952 a 1968 de 2.32 mm/año con el primer método y 3.41 mm/año para el segundo método, que es consecuente con las publicaciones existentes. En el caso del período actual (2009 a 2021) se obtuvo una tasa de 4.18 mm/año para el primer método y 4.28 mm/año con el segundo método. Los resultados obtenidos confirman que existe una tendencia al aumento del nivel del mar en la región estudiada, situación que debe ser considerada al estudiar las transformaciones que están ocurriendo en la costa, como lo son la erosión costera identificada en algunas zonas del Caribe costarricense.

ABSTRACT One of the consequences of climate change is sea level change in coastal systems, which function as a baseline, where a variety of coastal processes operate at different time and space scales. The objective of the present research is to calculate the historic and current rate of sea level rise, from Limon tide gauge station’s data. Two methods were utilized for this purpose: Simple linear regression analysis and time series decomposition; with the first method, a rate of 2.32 mm/yr of sea level change was obtained for the time period 1952 to 1968; with the second one, a rate result of 3.41 mm/yr which is consequent with the existing publications. In the current period (2009 - 2021) a rate of 4.18 mm/yr was obtained with the first method and 4.28 mm/yr with the second method. The results gathered confirm the existence of an upward trend in sea level rise in the studied region. This situation should be considered when studying the transformation taking place in the coast, such as the coastal erosion identified in some of the Costa Rican Caribbean zone.

RESUMEN Los manglares están expuestos a amenazas como el aumento del nivel del mar, la erosión costera, el aumento de la frecuencia e intensidad de eventos extremos, además de presiones socioeconómicas. Este estudio tuvo como objetivo realizar un análisis de vulnerabilidad y riesgo climático para el socioecosistema de manglar de Colombia. Se utilizaron 22 indicadores de amenaza, 8 de sensibilidad y 18 de capacidad adaptativa; mediante un análisis numérico multivariado se generaron los índices de vulnerabilidad y riesgo climático para los manglares del Pacífico y del Caribe de Colombia. Los manglares que presentaron mayor riesgo en el Caribe se ubicaron en los municipios de Manaure, Tubará y Puerto Escondido, mientras que en el Pacífico estas áreas de alto riesgo se ubicaron en la costa sur, en los municipios de Olaya Herrera, Francisco Pizarro y La Tola, y en la costa norte de Bahía Solano. Los indicadores de amenaza que capturaron la mayor variabilidad del análisis fueron: el aumento del nivel del mar, el cambio en la línea de costa, el cambio en la oferta hídrica, el cambio en la cobertura de manglares por cambio en la línea de costa, el cambio en la temperatura y la precipitación debido a El Niño y La Niña, y la huella humana. Estos resultados son un insumo para la gestión climática de los manglares en Colombia y contribuirán al Programa Nacional de Manglares. Asimismo, podrán contribuir al Plan Nacional de Restauración de Manglares, la Contribución Nacionalmente Determinada de Colombia (NDC), la Estrategia Climática de Largo Plazo de Colombia E2050, y los Planes Territoriales de Adaptación al Cambio Climático de los departamentos y municipios.

ABSTRACT The mangroves are exposed to threats such as sea level rise, coastal erosion, increase in the frequency and intensity of extreme events, in addition to socioeconomic pressures. This study aimed to carry out a vulnerability and risk climate analysis for the Colombian mangrove socioecosystem. 22 threat indicators, eight of sensitivity and 18 of adaptive capacity were used, and through multivariate numerical analysis, the vulnerability and climate risk indices for Colombian Pacific and Caribbean mangroves were generated. The mangroves that presented the highest risk in the Caribbean were located in the Manaure, Tubará and, Puerto Escondido municipalities, while in the Pacific these high-risk areas were located on the southern coast in the Olaya Herrera, Francisco Pizarro, and La Tola municipalities, and in the northern coast in the Bahía Solano municipality. The threat indicators that captured the greatest variability in the analysis were: sea level rise, change in the coastline, change in water supply, change in mangrove coverage due to change in the coastline, change in temperature and precipitation due to El Niño and La Niña, and human footprint. These results are input for climate management of mangroves in Colombia and will contribute to the National Mangrove Program. Likewise, it can contribute to the National Mangrove Restoration Plan, the Nationally Determined Contribution of Colombia (NDC), the Long-Term Climate Strategy of Colombia E 2050, and the Territorial Plans for Climate Change Adaptation of the states and municipalities.

Given the gaps detected in the national engineering practice, a methodology is proposed to integrate the effects of climate change in the design of coastal and port infrastructure. The methodology considers four stages, namely: 1) selection of climatic drivers on a global scale, 2) processing of climatic drivers on a regional scale, 3) processing of design variables on a local scale and 4) application in different areas of infrastructure design. The methodology integrates the calculation of oceanographic variables (e.g. atmospheric pressure, wind, waves, astronomical tide, meteorological tide and sea level rise) in a flow diagram that can interact with other design variables, such as earthquakes and tsunamis. Examples are presented on calculations of port operational downtime, extreme sea levels on beaches, wave overtopping of maritime works and beach erosion. We encourage state agencies to develop stages 1) and 2), providing open access to stakeholders involved in the design of coastal and port infrastructure.

Ante las brechas detectadas en la práctica de la ingeniería nacional, se propone una metodología para integrar los efectos del cambio climático en el diseño de infraestructura costera y portuaria. La metodología considera cuatro etapas: 1) selección de forzantes climáticos a escala global, 2) procesamiento de forzantes climáticos a escala regional, 3) procesamiento de variables de diseño a escala local y 4) aplicación en diferentes ámbitos del diseño de infraestructura. La metodología integra el cálculo de variables oceanográficas (e.g. presión atmosférica, viento, oleaje, marea astronómica, marea meteorológica y aumento del nivel del mar) en un diagrama de flujo que puede interactuar con otras variables de diseño, como los sismos y tsunamis. Se presentan ejemplos sobre cálculos de operatividad portuaria, nivel del mar extremo en playas, sobrepaso de obras marítimas y erosión de playas. Proponemos que el estado desarrolle las etapas 1) y 2), dando acceso libre a los actores que participan en el diseño de infraestructura costera y portuaria.

Resumen México es uno de los pocos países que combinan un gran legado pesquero y agrícola. No obstante, a pesar de sus contribuciones sociales y en la producción de alimentos, las políticas públicas mexicanas, en gran medida, han abandonado a los pequeños productores a lo largo de las últimas cuatro décadas. Además, se les ha relegado como el eslabón más débil dentro de las lógicas económicas del régimen alimentario mundial. Desde que México firmó el primer Tratado de Libre Comercio de América del Norte, los pescadores artesanales y los pequeños agricultores se han enfrentado a cinco problemas centrales: el desmantelamiento de los medios de producción, la erosión de las capacidades organizativas, lógicas comerciales desventajosas que limitan el acceso a mercados favorables, la occidentalización de las dietas y frecuentes periodos de inseguridad alimentaria. Este estudio aborda la siguiente pregunta de investigación, ¿cómo, frente a los procesos de exclusión del actual régimen alimentario, el abandono de las políticas públicas y la desarticulación de la mayoría de las capacidades organizativas sectoriales en México, pueden los pescadores y agricultores de pequeña escala, así como los consumidores urbanos y rurales, mejorar las realidades productivas, comerciales y alimentarias dentro de sus propios contextos de vida? Introducimos un enfoque transdisciplinario novedoso para un contexto específico, basado en nuestra experiencia de investigación con comunidades pesqueras y agrícolas de la Península de Yucatán. Finalmente, esbozamos nichos de innovación que podrían conducir a la relocalización de sistemas alimentarios regionales a través de complementariedades entre las zonas costeras y del interior.

Abstract Mexico is one of the few countries that combine fishing and agricultural legacies. Despite the social importance and central role of food production, Mexican public policies have largely abandoned small-scale producers over the last four decades. Moreover, they have been relegated to the status of weakest link in the economic logic of the global food regime. Since Mexico signed the first North American Free Trade Agreement, small-scale fishers and farmers have faced five main problems: dismantling of means of production, erosion of organizational capabilities, disadvantageous commercial logic that limits access to favorable markets, westernization of diets, and frequent periods of food insecurity. This study addresses the following research question, how, in the face of the exclusion processes of the current food regime, the abandonment of public policies and erosion of most of the sectoral organizational capacities in Mexico, can small-scale fishers and farmers, as well as urban and rural consumers improve their productive, commercial and food problems within their living contexts? We introduced a novel transdisciplinary context-specific approach, based on our research experience in fishing and farming communities of the Yucatan Peninsula. Finally, we outline innovation niches that could lead to relocate regional food systems through complementarities between coastal and inland areas.

Resumen (Introducción): Los espacios litorales constituyen la interfaz entre los ambientes terrestres y marinos, conectados por múltiples procesos naturales y socioecológicos, proporcionando bienes y servicios ecosistémicos para el bienestar humano. (Objetivo): Identificar los usos y actividades tanto terrestres como marinos con implicancias mutuas y los procesos biofísicos en la región norte del Ecosistema Costero Bonaerense (Argentina), con el fin de evaluar el grado de compatibilidad o conflicto entre estas actividades, con énfasis en el sector pesquero. (Metodología): Se aplicó el análisis metodológico tierra-mar-tierra (T-M-T). Se determinaron los usos y actividades (UyA), así como procesos biofísicos de origen marino y terrestre. Se identificaron las interacciones entre UyA marinos y terrestres, y procesos físicos T-M-T, para su posterior categorización y análisis de las interacciones previamente identificadas. (Resultados): Se notaron 121 interacciones de UyA T-M-T vinculadas con la pesca. Predominaron los conflictos medios por competencia de espacio o recursos y se relacionaron con la coexistencia espacial y temporal de UyA (turísticas, pesquera y comunicaciones). Se detectaron 68 interacciones negativas entre los procesos biofísicos y UyA asociados a eventos climáticos e impactos derivados del cambio climático (modificaciones en la temperatura superficial del mar, circulación atmosférica y oceánica, así como variaciones en el transporte de sedimentos y erosión costera). (Conclusiones): El análisis efectuado constituye un avance en el estudio entre UyA T-M-T en zonas litorales costero-marinas de la costa atlántica y de sus interacciones, con énfasis en la actividad pesquera, como aporte a la gestión de aquellos, con un enfoque ecosistémico.

Abstract (Introduction): Coastal areas constitute the interface between land and marine environments, connected through multiple natural and socioecological processes that contribute to human well-being. (Objective): Identify land and marine uses and activities with mutual implications and biophysical processes in the northern region of the Bonaerense Coastal Ecosystem (Argentina), in order to evaluate the degree of compatibility or conflict between these activities, with emphasis on the fishing activity. (Methodology): The land-sea-land (T-M-T) methodological analysis was applied. Uses and activities (U&A) and biophysical processes of marine and land origin were determined. Interactions between marine-land and biophysical processes T-M-T were identified for further categorization and analysis. (Results): A total of 121 U&A sea-land-sea (L-S-L) interactions related to fishing were detected. Medium conflicts were mainly caused by competition for space or resources and were associated with the coexistence of U&A (tourism, fishing, and communication activities), both spatially and temporally. Of the total, 68 negative interactions were observed between biophysical processes and U&A L-S-L, which were linked to climatic events and the effects of climate change (variation in sea surface temperature, atmospheric and oceanic circulation, as well as variations in sediment transport and coastal erosion). (Conclusions): The analysis carried out constitutes an advancement in the study of U&A T-M-T in coastal-marine areas of the Atlantic coast and their interactions, with emphasis on fishing activities, as a contribution to their management with an ecosystemic approach.

Resumen Este trabajo describe la práctica de conservación realizada en el Faro del Castillo de El Morro de San Felipe en Viejo San Juan, Puerto Rico; situado en una fortificación del siglo XVI que atestigua dos etapas constructivas y en las que sus diferentes materiales presentan deterioros propios de entornos costeros: humedad, salinidad y erosión por el viento. La coordinación entre las autoridades locales y el National Park Service (NPS, Estados Unidos) para la gestión del Faro en el Castillo de San Felipe El Morro es crucial para su conservación como inmueble de la Lista de Patrimonio Mundial (LPM, UNESCO). Además, las prácticas profesionales entre instituciones académicas en Latinoamérica y el Caribe en el campo de la Conservación y Restauración de Bienes Culturales inmuebles, es esencial para enriquecer el conocimiento y las habilidades de los profesionales; aunque se requieren mejoras en la disponibilidad de recursos y tiempo para maximizar su efectividad.

Abstract This work describes the conservation practice carried out in the Lighthouse in the El Morro Castle in San Felipe, Old San Juan, Puerto Rico; located in a 16th century fortification that went through two phases of construction, whose different materials now present deterioration specific to coastal environments: humidity, salinity, and wind erosion. As a building listed in the World Heritage Sites (WHS, UNESCO), coordination between local authorities and the US National Park Service (NPS) is crucial for the conservation and management of the Lighthouse in the El Morro Castle in San Felipe. Moreover, professional practices between academic institutions in Latin America and the Caribbean in the field of conservation and restoration of immovable cultural property are essential to deepen the knowledge and skills of professionals; however, improvements in the availability of resources and time are necessary to maximize their effectiveness.

Resumen Dentro de las estructuras de retención o contención, usadas ampliamente en la infraestructura vial, existe una gama amplia de posibilidades, como son las estructuras de gravedad convencionales (gaviones, criba, etc.), reforzadas, embebidas, anclajes, suelo estabilizado mecánicamente, entre otras. Dentro de ellas también, se encuentran las bolsas gigantes de geotextil, las cuales funcionan por gravedad usando material de relleno del sitio y demostrando un buen rendimiento ante la protección contra la erosión fluvial, marítima y en obras de protección o de contención para vías. Este artículo presenta la versatilidad de las bolsas gigantes de geotextil en la infraestructura vial, en la estabilización de terraplenes, taludes; y control de erosión fluvial y costera. Se presenta como estudio de caso a la zona de Bengala (kilómetro 21 de la vía Garzón - Neiva) y Túnel de Crespo (Cartagena - Colombia). La metodología utilizada para evaluar la evolución de la mejora con la intervención de bolsas gigantes de geotextil se realiza mediante el reporte de diseño, ejecución, seguimiento y control de la geometría del sitio de estudio. Las zonas intervenidas con bolsas de geotextil gigante presentan un comportamiento efectivo en la estabilidad del terreno, en el control de erosión y en la recuperación geométrica. A nivel cualitativo se logra evidenciar el proceso de restauración y estabilización de la costa y talud afectados, gracias a la intervención con bolsas de geotextil gigantes. A nivel cuantitativo se aprecia la estabilidad a largo plazo y la recuperación geométrica de las zonas intervenidas.

Abstract Between retaining structures, widely used in road infrastructure, there is a wide range of possibilities: conventional gravity structures (gabions, screens, etc.), reinforced, embedded, anchors, mechanically stabilized soil, among others. Among them, there is also the giant geotextile bags, which work by gravity using fill material from the site and demonstrating good performance against fluvial and maritime erosion, and road protection or containment. This article presents the versatility of giant geotextile bags in road infrastructure, embankment or slope stabilization; and river and coastal erosion control. As a case study, the Bengala (kilometer 21 of the Garzón - Neiva road) and Crespo Tunnel (Cartagena - Colombia) are presented. The methodology used to evaluate the evolution of the improvement with the intervention of giant geotextile bags is done through the report of design, execution, follow-up and control of the geometry of the intervened site. The areas intervened with giant geotextile bags show an effective behavior in soil stability, erosion control and geometric recovery. At a qualitative level, the process of restoration and stabilization of the affected coast and slope is evident, thanks to the intervention with giant geotextile bags. At a quantitative level, the long-term stability and geometric recovery of the intervened areas can be appreciated.

SUMMARY This is a review of studies related with the effects generated by the fast-growing exotic plantations (PECR) of Pinus radiata and Eucalyptus spp. on water quality of watersheds in south-central Chile, at different spatial and temporal scales. The analyzed data comes from a region between 36° - 40° S in the Central Valley and includes both mountain ranges, the Coastal and the Andes. Studies on the watershed’s capacity to export nutrients indicate that the conversion from native forests to forest plantations implies a net loss in nitrogen (N) and phosphorus (P) retention capacity. Consequently, watersheds with plantations coverage experience a net loss of these nutrients. Similarly, in watersheds dominated by Eucalyptus globulus, nitrogen retention decreases, especially NO3-N, and is partially reversed as a wider riparian vegetation is maintained. Studies of soil erosion and sediment transport losses show that clearcut harvesting has significant impacts on water quality, increasing sediment transport rates in streams. However, when soil conservation measures are practiced, erosion rates decrease significantly during forest harvesting. Some of the physical-chemical characteristics of the water, such as pH and temperature, are similar between streams with native forests and forest plantations. There is also a tendency for a decrease of richness and abundance of the macrobenthic invertebrates community due to the replacement of riparian vegetation by Eucalyptus spp.

RESUMEN Se presenta una revisión de estudios acerca de los efectos que generan las plantaciones exóticas de crecimiento rápido (PECR) de Pinus radiata y Eucalyptus spp. sobre la calidad del agua de cuencas en el centro-sur de Chile, a diferentes escalas espaciales y temporales. Los datos analizados provienen de una región comprendida entre los 36°- 40° S, en el Valle Central y en ambas cordilleras de la Costa y de los Andes. Los estudios acerca de la capacidad de las cuencas para exportar nutrientes indican que la conversión de bosques nativos por plantaciones forestales, implican una pérdida en la capacidad de retención de nitrógeno (N) y fósforo (P), por lo que las cuencas con cobertura de plantaciones presentan pérdidas netas de estos nutrientes. En cuencas donde predomina Eucalyptus globulus, la retención de N disminuye, especialmente NO3-N y se revierte parcialmente a medida que se mantiene un mayor ancho de vegetación ribereña. Los estudios de pérdidas de suelo por erosión y transporte de sedimentos muestran que la cosecha a tala rasa produce fuertes impactos sobre la calidad del agua, aumentando las tasas de transporte de sedimentos en los cauces de agua. Sin embargo, cuando se practican medidas de conservación de suelos las tasas de erosión disminuyen notablemente durante la cosecha forestal. Algunas de las características físico-químicas del agua, como pH y temperatura, son similares en esteros con bosques nativos y plantaciones forestales. Finalmente, se detectó una tendencia a la disminución de la riqueza y abundancia de la comunidad de macro invertebrados bentónicos debido al reemplazo de la vegetación ribereña de especies boscosas nativas por Eucalyptus spp.

Abstract: We report the results of distributional studies conducted in the area surrounding the so-called Paredón de los Grabados -an extensive wall with petroglyphs- located near the foothills of the Sierra Paleimán (province of Río Negro) and 48 linear kilometers from the Atlantic coast, at the convergence of small seasonal watercourses, tributaries of the Salado creek. To explore the use of this interior space, a sampling grid of 1 km per side, divided into 100 m quadrants, was proposed as the basis for developing a total of 20 transects. The distributional analysis results, presented in GIS images, showed a high density of archaeological records concentrated mainly in gullies and ravines associated with fluvial erosion. These results suggest a differential use of the space, where the higher and rockier sectors, on the other hand, showed low densities and a more dispersed record and a greater intensity of use in lower areas, close to the Paredón de los Grabados. A predominance of lithic artifacts, mainly scrapers, is noted. As for raw materials, a wide diversity was observed, including various types of non-local obsidian. There were also a few ceramic shards and marine malacological fragments, some of which were shaped, indicating mobility and contact between areas and the transport of a coastal resource. The results obtained suggest that the area was used redundantly over time, most likely during the late-recent Holocene, and was integrated into the coastal-interior circulation routes.

Resumen: Se presentan los resultados de los estudios distribucionales desarrollados en el área circundante al denominado Paredón de los Grabados -extensa barda con petroglifos-, emplazado próximo a las estribaciones de la Sierra Paleimán (provincia de Río Negro, Argentina) y a 48 km lineales de la costa Atlántica, donde confluyen pequeños cursos de agua estacionarios, tributarios del arroyo Salado. En vista a explorar el uso de este espacio interior se planteó una grilla de muestreo de 1 km de lado, dividida en cuadrantes de 100 m, que fue la base para desarrollar un total de 20 transectas. Los análisis distribucionales volcados en imágenes GIS mostraron una alta densidad del registro arqueológico concentrado principalmente en cañadones y cárcavas asociados a la erosión fluvial. Estos resultados sugieren un uso diferencial del espacio, donde los sectores más altos mostraron bajas densidades y un registro más bien disperso, mientras que se detectó una mayor intensidad de uso de los espacios bajos, próximos al Paredón de los Grabados. Se destaca el predominio de artefactos líticos y entre los instrumentos, el de los raspadores. En cuanto a las materias primas se observó amplia diversidad, incluyendo distintos tipos de obsidiana de procedencia no local. Se registraron también escasos tiestos cerámicos y fragmentos malacológicos marinos (algunos formatizados) indicadores de movilidad o contacto entre áreas, y transporte de un recurso costero. Los resultados obtenidos sugieren que el área fue utilizada de manera redundante a lo largo del tiempo, más factiblemente durante el Holoceno tardío-reciente y que estaba integrada dentro de las vías de circulación costa-interior.

Resumen Los modelos de clasificación de playa son ampliamente usados para describir el estado de la playa en respuesta a las condiciones ambientales reinantes y han establecido las bases teóricas sobre los modelos de perfil de equilibrio y en planta de una playa y sus diversas aplicaciones. En el estudio se determina el estado morfodinámico en 54 playas biogénicas arenosas del litoral nororiental de Cuba, a partir de la identificación de las geoformas litorales encontradas en trabajos de terrenos, para el periodo comprendido entre agosto de 2018 y marzo del año 2022, y las geoformas identificadas en imágenes satelitales de alta resolución de Google Earth Pro (CNES/Airbus, Maxar Technologies). Además, se comprobó en 12 playas representativas del litoral nororiental, si las geoformas litorales observadas en los trabajos de campo, indicativas de ciertos estados morfológicos, se corresponden con las pronosticadas mediante el parámetro adimensional Ω o Índice de Dean, que permite clasificar las playas en disipativas, reflejantes e intermedias. Como rasgos geomorfológicos fundamentales destacan un ancho medio de la playa superior a 50 m, una cara de 11 m de ancho y bermas estrechas o ausentes, con altura media de 1.35 m, sin la presencia de cúspides y topografías rítmicas, excepto en el 26% de las playas y únicamente en la etapa invernal. En la parte sumergida aparece una barra de arena de poca altura, sin la presencia de corrientes de resaca. La presencia de arrecifes coralinos que protegen las playas del oleaje de mayor altura, en el 93% de los casos, constituye el rasgo geomorfológico más significativo de las playas objeto de estudio. El cálculo del parámetro adimensional confirmó que las playas del litoral nororiental de Cuba corresponden a estados morfodinámicos de tipo intermedio y tienden más a estados modales reflejantes que disipativos, resultados que se corresponden con las geoformas litorales y la granulometría de los sedimentos encontrados en las playas objetos de estudio. Aun cuando las características reportadas por investigadores australianos, para playas intermedias coincidan con los valores pronosticados mediante el cálculo del parámetro adimensional Ω y con las características sedimentarias de las playas, las geoformas reportadas por estos, para playas intermedias, no fueron encontradas en las playas objeto de estudio. En ellas no aparecen corrientes de retorno, cadenas de surcos litorales, terrazas de bajamar, marcada topografía rítmica y cúspides. Otros estudios también han señalado que no siempre se cumple la clasificación de las playas, que tiene en cuenta las características de las olas y la velocidad de caída de los sedimentos, propuestas por investigadores australianos, debido particularmente a la presencia de arrecifes coralinos cercanos a la costa, la baja energía del oleaje y el control geológico. A ello habría que añadir el predominio del transporte longitudinal de arena sobre el transporte transversal en el área de estudio. Los resultados confirman que la clasificación de las playas, atendiendo a su estado morfodinámico es esencial para comprender la dinámica espacio-temporal de los procesos hidrodinámicos que tienen lugar en las playas y un mejor conocimiento local y regional de las mismas. Además, reafirman la necesidad de contar con estudios específicos de las características hidrodinámicas y sedimentarias propias de cada litoral, antes de extrapolar modelos de perfil de equilibrio en playas y las ecuaciones que se deriven de ellos en las actuaciones para el control de la erosión.

Abstract Beach classification models are widely used to describe the state of the beach in response to the prevailing environmental conditions and have set the theoretical grounds for equilibrium and in-plant profile models of a beach and their various applications. This study determined the morphodynamic state of 54 sandy biogenic beaches on the northeast coast of Cuba. This was done based on the identification of coastal geoforms found in land works between August 2018 and March 2022 and the geoforms identified in high-resolution satellite images from Google Earth Pro (CNES/Airbus, Maxar Technologies). In addition, on 12 representative beaches on the northeast coast, we explored whether the coastal geoforms indicative of certain morphological states observed during fieldwork match those predicted by the Ω dimensionless parameter or Dean’s index, which classified beaches as dissipative, reflective, and intermediate. The main geomorphological features include an average beach width of more than 50 m, an 11 m-wide face, and a narrow or absent flat zone with a mean height of 1.35 m, lacking cusps and rhythmic topography, except for 26 % of beaches and only in winter. The submerged zone shows a low sand bar without rip currents. Coral reefs that protect the beaches from the highest waves in 93 % of the cases represent the distinctive geomorphological feature of the beaches studied. The dimensionless parameter confirmed that the beaches of Cuba’s northeast coast correspond to intermediate morphodynamic states with a trend toward reflective rather than dissipative modal states. These findings correspond to the coastal geoforms and sediment granulometry on the beaches studied. The figures obtained with the dimensionless parameter Ω and the sedimentary characteristics of the beaches are consistent with the characteristics of intermediate beaches reported by Australian researchers, but we did not find the geoforms for intermediate beaches reported by them. The beaches studied showed no rip currents, chains of coastal furrows, low-tide terraces, marked rhythmic topography, and cusps. Other studies have also pointed out that the beach classification proposed by Australian researchers, which considers the characteristics of waves and the sedimentation rate, is not always applicable. In the study area, this is mainly due to the presence of coral reefs close to the coast, low wave energy, and the influence of geological factors, in addition to the prevalence of longitudinal over transverse sand transport. Our results confirm that beach classification considering their morphodynamic state is essential to understanding the spatio-temporal dynamics of the hydrodynamic processes on beaches and contributes to a better local and regional knowledge of them. In addition, they highlight that the hydrodynamic and sedimentary characteristics of each coastline should be studied before using beach equilibrium profile models and the equations derived from them for erosion control actions.

ABSTRACT Sandy beaches have different shoreline change rates (i.e., erosion/accretion rates). An erosive process on beaches poses risks for human-occupied areas. One example is Matinhos Beach (state of Paraná - Brazil), which has an average annual erosion rate of around 1.5 m yr-1 This study applied a methodology that combines in situ measurements and numerical modeling to simulate the physical processes in the coastal area of Matinhos during the 2018 Austral winter. Monthly DGPS surveys were carried out in the study area from June to September. The MOHID modeling system was applied to simulate hydrodynamics and sediment transport, considering waves and tidal forcing validated with in situ data. The WAVEWATCH III and SWAN models were applied in a nesting approach to simulate the waves at Matinhos Beach. The GFS was used to assess the wind conditions. The study period showed a dynamic evolution of accretion and erosion between monthly measurements with no clear pattern in most profiles. Significant sand accumulation was observed near the headland. Morphological changes were minor due to the predominance of low energy without significant storm events. The measured morphological changes are in line with the residual littoral drift obtained from the modeling results for the period. The residual current velocities were towards the southwest, with magnitudes ranging from 0.15 m s-1 to 0.2 m s-1. A slight variation in the angle of wave incidence (10°) may change the direction (southwest or northeast) and intensity of the littoral drift. The applied methodology can reduce uncertainty and support effective coastal management. However, the seasonal scales of wave climate cannot be disregarded, nor can the need for coastal oceanographic data. i.e., ie i e (i.e. erosionaccretion rates. . rates) humanoccupied human occupied areas state Brazil, Brazil , Brazil) 15 1 5 1. yr1 yr yr- 201 winter September transport data conditions profiles headland events southwest 015 0 0.1 s1 s s- 02 2 0. s1. 10° 10 (10° northeast management However disregarded i.e. (i.e 20 01 (10 i.e (1 (

Abstract Coastal dunes have a crucial role in offering the ecosystem service of natural coastal protection. This paper investigates the importance of dunes in providing the ecosystem service of natural coastal protection on the North Coast of the State of Rio Grande do Sul (RS) in southern Brazil. The Integrated Valuation of Ecosystem Services and Tradeoffs (InVEST®) Coastal Vulnerability Model was used to quantify the relative susceptibility to coastal erosion and flooding within the study area. First, the model was run to assess the susceptibility to coastal hazards considering the presence of dunes. Then, the model was run again without the presence of dunes. By comparing the results of the two model simulations, it was possible to identify where dunes contribute to reducing coastal exposure, which indirectly reflects their role in providing the ecosystem service of natural coastal protection. There are two main dune fields in the study area, one in the northern coastal sector and one in the southern sector, respectively in the municipalities of Torres and Cidreira. The index of exposure values produced by the two model simulations were very similar for locations along the Torres coastline. In contrast, along the coast of Cidreira, results from the model simulation without dunes produced higher exposure values than the simulation with the presence of dunes, suggesting that the dunes have an important role in offering natural coastal protection. Dunes are a natural barrier against coastal erosion and flooding, but they are not the only factor influencing the ecosystem service of coastal protection. In Torres, for instance, the local topography and the wind patterns contribute to reducing local exposure. The greatest threat in this sector is the urban sprawl. RS (RS Brazil InVEST® InVEST (InVEST® area First Then Cidreira coastline contrast instance sprawl (InVEST

Resumo As dunas desempenham um papel crucial nos ecossistemas da costa, fornecendo o serviço ecossistêmico de proteção costeira. Este artigo investiga a relevância das dunas na oferta do serviço ecossistêmico de proteção costeira no Litoral Norte do Rio Grande do Sul - RS. A análise empregou o modelo Coastal Vulnerability do Integrated Valuation of Ecosystem Services and Tradeoffs - InVEST para quantificar a suscetibilidade à erosão e inundação. Os resultados refletem o valor relativo do nível de exposição a esses riscos costeiros considerando a presença de dunas. Posteriormente, o modelo foi usado novamente, desta vez excluindo a presença das dunas. Assim, foi possível identificar onde a presença das dunas contribui para reduzir a exposição costeira e, indiretamente atribuir no papel das dunas em prover o serviço de proteção costeira. A análise comparativa dos resultados entre as duas simulações mostrou maiores diferenças no setor sul da área de estudo. Os dois principais campos de dunas na área de estudo estão localizados em Cidreira e Torres. No município de Torres, a simulação sem a presença de dunas não apresentou diferenças expressivas de exposição costeira. Já em Cidreira, os valores de exposição costeira aumentaram, indicando que neste local a presença das dunas desempenham um papel relevante no serviço ecossistêmico de proteção costeira. Com isto, as dunas são uma barreira natural contra eventos como de erosão e inundação na linha de costa, porém no processo de mapeamento do serviço ecossistêmico de proteção costeira não é a única variável que é identificada. Isto ficou evidente na porção norte, em Torres, a topografia local, associada com a dinâmica dos ventos influência na barreira natural contra estes eventos. A maior ameaça nesta região está ligada ao processo de expansão da zona urbana. Já na porção sul as dunas contribuem para promover o serviço ecossistêmico de proteção. costa RS Posteriormente novamente Assim Torres aumentaram isto identificada norte urbana

ABSTRACT Identifying sediment sources is fundamental for protecting and improving soil and water quality. Conventional fingerprinting studies have often collected sediments at the overall watershed outlet only, resulting in an important spatial scale dependency. This study aimed to identify and to assess the delivery patterns of sediment sources within three priority sub-catchments (Sapocaji, Piedade and Minas) located in the downstream portion of the Ipojuca River watershed in Brazil. This research would build on understanding sediment sources in the studied watershed by elucidating source type contributions on a sub-catchment basis. Both bed and suspended sediment samples were collected in these sub-catchments, and two types of sources were sampled: surface and subsurface sources. A total of 21 geochemical tracers were measured. The tracers were evaluated for their conservation and discriminatory ability (Kruskal-Wallis test and linear discriminant analysis), and the best set of tracers was selected for source apportionment modeling using MixSIAR. Surface (i.e., sugarcane croplands) sources contributed the highest to suspended sediments in the Piedade and Minas sub-catchments. There was a difference in the quality of riverbank management, which helped explain contrasts in the importance of this source. Overall, sub-catchment-specific sediment control management measures, such as the revegetation of riparian forests, need to be implemented, mainly in the Sapocaji sub-catchment. These results underscore the importance of connectivity for surface source contributions. only dependency subcatchments sub catchments Sapocaji, (Sapocaji Brazil subcatchment catchment basis subcatchments, catchments, sampled 2 measured KruskalWallis Kruskal Wallis analysis, analysis , analysis) MixSIAR i.e., ie i e (i.e. croplands subcatchments. catchments. Overall subcatchmentspecific specific measures forests implemented subcatchment. catchment. i.e. (i.e i.e

Abstract The storm risks in coastal regions have drawn attention worldwide in recent decades. Understanding the characteristics and behavior of these events and their potential damage to coasts has become essential for decision-making and coastal management. This study aimed to identify and examine the climatology of coastal storms on the central coast of the state of Rio de Janeiro, proposing a classification and a coastal impact evaluation that applies Dolan and Davis’ ( 1992 ) storm index. For this, 34 years of NOAA/NCEP/NCAR hindcast wave database were used (1979 - 2013). Secondarily, this study aimed to compare wave data at two locations (the south-orientated west and the east-northeast-orientated east coasts) to verify the influence of coastal orientation against storm events. This research found 231 storm events on the west coast and 44 on the east coast. While mean durations resembled each other (at around 27 hours), the east coast had a 9% lower mean storm wave height. The storm peak direction from the south predominated on the west coast (52%), whereas a south-southeast direction dominated the east coast (50%). Storm classification showed 3.4 and 9% of storms considered Extreme in the west and east, respectively. Extreme storms include those in September 1983, May 1997, May 2001, and April 2010. Coastal storms on the west and east represented 2.39 and 0.57% of all cyclones identified in the southwestern Atlantic. In shallow waters, the highest amount of energy dissipation occurred on the east coast, which is sheltered from storms from the south-southwest but is exposed to those from the south-southeast. Extreme and Severe events greatly impacted the coast, including beach and dune erosion, overwash, and property damage. However, even coastal storms considered Weak caused considerable coastal damage. decades decisionmaking decision making management Janeiro Davis 199 index 3 NOAANCEPNCAR NOAA NCEP NCAR 1979 (197 2013. 2013 . 2013) Secondarily southorientated orientated eastnortheastorientated northeast 23 4 2 hours, hours , hours) 9 height 52%, 52 52% (52%) southsoutheast southeast 50%. 50 50% (50%) 3. respectively 1983 1997 2001 2010 239 39 2.3 057 0 57 0.57 Atlantic waters southsouthwest southwest southsoutheast. southeast. erosion overwash However 19 197 (19 201 5 (52% (50% 198 200 2. 05 0.5 1 (1 20 (52 (50 0. (5

Resumo Este estudo tem como objetivo avaliar as mudanças morfodinâmicas em um sistema de praia-penhasco no nordeste do Brasil usando dados de alta resolução coletados por técnicas de VANT-SfM para entender as mudanças geomórficas da paisagem costeira. O estudo usou o método de Detecção de Mudança Geomórfica (GCD) aplicado ao monitoramento de curto prazo. Esse método usa modelos digitais de elevação (MDEs) para determinar as mudanças morfológicas em termos de erosão e deposição por meio de MDEs de diferença (DoDs). Os modelos de grade de diferença são adquiridos por sensoriamento remoto baseado em drones, que podem fornecer com precisão e eficiência imagens de altíssima resolução e dados de modelo de superfície digital para medir as alterações volumétricas. As alterações geomórficas são observadas em mapas de alta resolução. A análise multitemporal revelou volumes significativos de erosão e deposição em todo o sistema praia-penhasco durante o período de estudo. No primeiro intervalo (maio/2021 - novembro/2021), a falésia registrou -8.715 m3 de erosão e 2.816 m3 de deposição, com o setor da praia apresentando erosão em 86% de sua área. No segundo período (novembro/2021 - março/2022), foram observadas taxas de erosão mais severas na falésia, chegando a -10.853 m3, com 51% de sua área erodida, enquanto a praia apresentou comportamento oposto ao analisado anteriormente, com 73% da praia com acúmulo de areia e saldo positivo de 5.960 m3. Os resultados desse estudo podem ser úteis para identificar os diferentes riscos geomorfológicos, os impactos costeiros da urbanização das falésias e o uso de aeronaves remotamente pilotadas no monitoramento costeiro. Além disso, os resultados indicam que a gestão do sistema praia-arriba deve ser integrada e nunca dissociada, como geralmente é feito pelos gestores costeiros. praiapenhasco penhasco VANTSfM VANT SfM costeira GCD (GCD prazo (MDEs DoDs. DoDs . (DoDs) drones volumétricas maio/2021 maio2021 maio 2021 (maio/202 novembro/2021, novembro2021 novembro novembro/2021 , novembro/2021) 8.715 8715 8 715 -8.71 m 2816 2 816 2.81 86 (novembro/202 março/2022, março2022 março março/2022 2022 março/2022) 10.853 10853 10 853 -10.85 51 erodida anteriormente 73 5960 5 960 5.96 geomorfológicos costeiro disso praiaarriba arriba dissociada (DoDs maio/202 maio202 202 (maio/20 novembro202 novembro/202 8.71 871 71 -8.7 281 81 2.8 (novembro/20 março202 março/202 10.85 1085 1 85 -10.8 7 596 96 5.9 maio/20 maio20 20 (maio/2 novembro20 novembro/20 8.7 87 -8. 28 2. (novembro/2 março20 março/20 10.8 108 -10. 59 9 5. maio/2 maio2 (maio/ novembro2 novembro/2 8. -8 (novembro/ março2 março/2 10. -10 maio/ (maio novembro/ (novembro março/ -1

Abstract This study aims to evaluate the morphodynamic changes in a beach-cliff system in northeastern Brazil using high resolution data collected by UAV-SfM techniques to understand the geomorphic changes of the coastal landscape. The study used the Geomorphic Change Detection (GCD) method applied to short-term monitoring. This method uses Digital Elevation Models (DEMs) to determine the morphological changes in terms of both erosion and deposition through DEMs of Difference (DoDs). The difference gridded models are acquired by drone-based remote sensing, which can accurately and efficiently provide ultra-high resolution imagery and digital surface model data to measure volumetric changes. The geomorphic changes are observed on high resolution maps. The multi-temporal analysis revealed significant volumes of erosion and deposition throughout the beach-cliff system over the study period. In the first interval (May/2021 - November/2021), the cliff recorded -8,715 m3 of erosion and 2,816 m3 of deposition, with the beach sector showing erosion in 86% of its area. In the second period (November/2021 - March/2022), more severe erosion rates were observed on the cliff, reaching -10,853 m3 with 51% of its area eroded, while the beach showed the opposite behavior to that previously analyzed, with 73% of the beach experiencing an accumulation of sand and a positive balance of 5,960 m3. The results of this study can be fruitful in identifying the different of geomorphology hazards, coastal impacts of cliff urbanization and in the use of remotely piloted aircraft in coastal monitoring. Furthermore, the results indicate that the management of the beach-cliff system must be integrated and never dissociated, as is generally done by coastal managers. beachcliff UAVSfM UAV SfM landscape GCD (GCD shortterm short term monitoring (DEMs DoDs. DoDs . (DoDs) dronebased drone based sensing ultrahigh ultra maps multitemporal multi temporal May/2021 May2021 May 2021 (May/202 November/2021, November2021 November November/2021 , November/2021) 8,715 8715 8 715 -8,71 m 2816 2 816 2,81 86 (November/202 March/2022, March2022 March March/2022 2022 March/2022) 10,853 10853 10 853 -10,85 51 eroded analyzed 73 5960 5 960 5,96 hazards Furthermore dissociated managers (DoDs May/202 May202 202 (May/20 November202 November/202 8,71 871 71 -8,7 281 81 2,8 (November/20 March202 March/202 10,85 1085 1 85 -10,8 7 596 96 5,9 May/20 May20 20 (May/2 November20 November/20 8,7 87 -8, 28 2, (November/2 March20 March/20 10,8 108 -10, 59 9 5, May/2 May2 (May/ November2 November/2 8, -8 (November/ March2 March/2 10, -10 May/ (May November/ (November March/ -1

Resumen Este estudio tiene como objetivo evaluar los cambios morfodinámicos en un sistema playa-acantilado en el noreste de Brasil utilizando datos de alta resolución recogidos por técnicas UAV-SfM para comprender los cambios geomórficos en el paisaje costero. El estudio utilizó el método de Detección de Cambios Geomórficos (DGC) aplicado a la monitorización a corto plazo. Este método utiliza modelos digitales de elevación (MDE) para determinar los cambios morfológicos en términos de erosión y deposición mediante MDE de diferencias (MDE). Los modelos de cuadrícula de diferencias se adquieren mediante teledetección basada en drones, que puede proporcionar con precisión y eficacia imágenes de muy alta resolución y datos de modelos digitales de superficie para medir los cambios volumétricos. Los cambios geomórficos se observan en mapas de alta resolución. El análisis multitemporal reveló volúmenes significativos de erosión y deposición en todo el sistema playa-acantilado durante el periodo de estudio. En el primer intervalo (Mayo/2021 - Noviembre/2021), el acantilado registró -8.715 m3 de erosión y 2.816 m3 de deposición, con el sector de playa mostrando erosión en el 86% de su área. En el segundo periodo (Noviembre/2021 - Marzo/2022), se observaron tasas de erosión más severas en el acantilado, alcanzando los -10.853 m3, con un 51% de su superficie erosionada, mientras que la playa mostró un comportamiento opuesto al análisis anterior, con un 73% de la playa con acumulación de arena y un saldo positivo de 5.960 m3. Los resultados de este estudio podrían ser útiles para identificar los diferentes riesgos geomorfológicos, los impactos costeros de la urbanización de los acantilados y el uso de aeronaves pilotadas por control remoto en la vigilancia costera. Además, los resultados indican que la gestión del sistema playa-acantilado debe ser integrada y nunca disociada, como suelen hacer los gestores costeros. playaacantilado UAVSfM UAV SfM costero DGC (DGC plazo (MDE MDE. . drones volumétricos Mayo/2021 Mayo2021 Mayo 2021 (Mayo/202 Noviembre/2021, Noviembre2021 Noviembre Noviembre/2021 , Noviembre/2021) 8.715 8715 8 715 -8.71 m 2816 2 816 2.81 86 área (Noviembre/202 Marzo/2022, Marzo2022 Marzo Marzo/2022 2022 Marzo/2022) 10.853 10853 10 853 -10.85 51 erosionada anterior 73 5960 5 960 5.96 geomorfológicos costera Además disociada Mayo/202 Mayo202 202 (Mayo/20 Noviembre202 Noviembre/202 8.71 871 71 -8.7 281 81 2.8 (Noviembre/20 Marzo202 Marzo/202 10.85 1085 1 85 -10.8 7 596 96 5.9 Mayo/20 Mayo20 20 (Mayo/2 Noviembre20 Noviembre/20 8.7 87 -8. 28 2. (Noviembre/2 Marzo20 Marzo/20 10.8 108 -10. 59 9 5. Mayo/2 Mayo2 (Mayo/ Noviembre2 Noviembre/2 8. -8 (Noviembre/ Marzo2 Marzo/2 10. -10 Mayo/ (Mayo Noviembre/ (Noviembre Marzo/ -1